Last night we were nestled in a steep valley in Conques.  We had spent the night in the St. Foy abbey located close to the top of the conch-shaped town (hence the name, Conques).  

This morning we had to go down to the bottom of the valley to the creek, cross a creek on an old bridge and then begin a steep climb up the next mountain range. 

Here from the halfway-point of our upward climb, you can see the town of Conques that we left behind. 

The panoramic view upon reaching the top was wonderful. 

The rest of the day we went up and down hills, but we always we had the panoramic view all around.

Finally, today we found quite a few ripe blackberries to enjoy along the way. 

After 22 km of walking in the sun and 150 floors of climbing, we got to our gite only to find out that we needed to walk another 2 km further into town to get our dinner and to buy a picnic breakfast and lunch for tomorrow.  On the way into town, we ran into Neve and her family as they were planning to have a late lunch. 

We love the early morning hike. The body feels healed from the night’s rest, and we are ready to experience the cool breeze and the sun’s emergence into the scene. As usual it was beyond words. 

We passed a cute little town. 

I saw this Donkey all by his lonesome and decided to greet him with a hee-haw. He got all excited and responded with his own hee-haw so loudly I though I had met a long lost cousin. He immediately began following me to the end of his pasture. I had to promise him that I would find him some apples and come back and feed him!

After 15 km and 82 floors, we unexpectedly descended into the 11th century monks’ town of Conques. 

We met Neve and her 5 children in the church as they were spending the day in Conques. 

Our tour guide happens to be the model on the guide booklet. 

After the tour, we all enjoyed some time together at the restaurant. 

Our rest day in fairyland deserves some more pictures. Here they are. 

We also had the privilege and pleasure of meeting Neve from North Carolina and her five children Aynsleigh -9; Bronwyn-11; Tristan- 13; Aynsleigh -9, Bronwyn-11, Tristan- 13, Karsh-15, and Reichen-17.  This is the woman and 5 well-behaved children we have been hearing of all along the Camino and whom we mentioned to you a few days ago.  We were so happy to finally meet them!

They were a joy to spend some time with. Such a special mother and a wonderful family truly enjoying the outdoors and the Camino journey. 

So far, every day has been up and down hills most of the day. Today was no different!  Even though we started at the river Lot, visited a Disney-like city of Espalion, and ended up in yet another Disney-like city of Estaing, we barely were able to walk 10 minutes along the river. Usually a river-walk would be easy.  But today’s walk went through steep hills and was anything but.  Up and down was the motto!  All told, 22 km and 105 floors today.  Way too much!  Which means a rest day tomorrow!!!
I will let the pictures do the talking today.

Last night we had a wonderful communal dinner with 19 other pilgrims. For the first time we were in a dormitory and had to share a room on this Camino. 

We left at 6:30 as usual. The day was going to be up and down, but overall,  we were destined to arrive in a  beautiful valley. 

We began climbing immediately out of town. 

Very soon we entered a forest of birch trees. It was magnificent and utterly quite. You could hear the deafening roar of silence. The walk was magical, meditative, and divine. 

Walking in this divine environment, I could not help but remember Rumi’s poetry. 

Rumi

(1207 -1273)

Behind the Scenes

Is it your face

that adorns the garden?
Is it your fragrance

that intoxicates this garden?
Is it your spirit

that has made this brook

a river of wine?

Hundreds have looked for you

and died searching

in this garden

where you hide behind the scenes.

But this pain is not for those

who come as lovers.
You are easy to find here.
You are in the breeze

and in this river of wine.

Book: The Essential Rumi by Rumi

After a half-hour of walking through the enchanted forest, we were out into the mountains again, climbing some more. 

We continued on to the next town where we met quite a few other pilgrims, all gathered to enjoy coffee and tea by the roadside. 

Chatting with Trevor from England. 

Our roommate from last night, Guy, from Quebec. 

We entered another forest. This one was full of chestnut trees. 

We enjoyed our picnic lunch on the way down the mountain. We met our inspiration for the day in this French lady (wearing a white cap), 78 years young, carrying a full backpack and going up and down these tough slopes merrily. 

We finally saw our destination for today. It is a charming medieval town nestled in the valley below. 

It is a cute little town with narrow streets, a beautiful church, a chateau, and with arched gates to enter the inner sanctum. 



For the first 3 days of our hike we were in the volcanic region of Deves.  For the last 5 days we have been in the mountain region of Aubrac.  Today we climbed to the town of Aubrac (1307 m) atop the mountain .  Then we descended for the next 7 km to the town of St. Chely d’Aubrac (810 m). 

We started at 6:30 in the morning. As usual the morning hour was enchanting. 

When the sun finally became visible, the forest was captured in the soft golden glow. 

Usually we walk beside pastures.  Today, however, we walked within the pastures, themselves, with all the cows!

If you pay attention to the picture below, you will notice the way-markings for the Via Podiensis (GR65).  Parallel white and red bars indicate the way (notice extreme right of the picture), whereas a cross of white and red bars (extreme left of the picture) indicates the wrong direction. 

We continued our gradual climb through pastures to the town of Aubrac. 

We stopped for coffee in the town of Aubrac with Joe and Jude from  Australia (both retired principals). 

Fortunately the downhill portion was well-shaded. 

In St. Chely d’Aubrac we have a gorgeous view from our balcony. 

Enjoying ice cream, coffee, and a local treat with Genevieve and Bruno. 

We ended up walking 18 km and 68 floors today. 

We woke up to a beautiful and foggy landscape. We had a short distance to travel today, so we stayed behind at the gite long enough to have a typical French breakfast of bread, jam, coffee/tea/orange juice.  We ate with the other pilgrims with whom we had had dinner the night before (about 6 pilgrims and 6 tourists). 

We left around 7:30 and began enjoying the wide open vistas. The cows were out grazing in green pastures while the clanging of their bells filled the air with sweet music.  Clouds still hung low in the valleys.

Miniature wild flowers were abundant along the path and became my curiosity. 

After 11 km and 50 floors, we concluded our easy day of walking to Nasbinals.  Our backpacks now just feel to be a part of us. It is nice to be finally comfortable with them.

Aumont Aubrac is a sweet little village with one grocery store, one church and two of everything else. Most of the stores are closed Sunday afternoon and 1/2 the business are closed on Monday. Fortunately we were in one of the well-known gites in town (most people book their rooms 3 months in advance!) and had wonderful dinners on two nights at the gite. 

Our chef serving us mashed potatoes with cheese, garlic, and cream (a local delicacy). 

Enjoying the town. 

This morning we left early as usual.  The sky was cloudy with a cool breeze blowing. 

It is so peaceful and serene as the light filters in and the sky gets brighter as we walk through the wide open ranch/farm land. 

The sun made a few vain attempts to break through the clouds but never quite made it through. First time during our hike so far that we wore our jackets through the whole way. 

We see people carrying all kinds of backpacks. Today these two caught our attention. 

We made good time covering 16 km with a climb of 85 floors. 

We are settled in a Chambre  d’hôte located out in the middle of fields.  This is the view from our window.  As you can the sun is finally victorious. 

We are here, ensconced in a very pretty gite. We are showered, our clothes are washed and drying. Dad is napping, and I am sitting on a chair next to an open, screened ceiling-to-floor window overlooking flowers and the courtyard 6 ft below. And writing to you!

It’s 3:15 pm here. Today’s walk was lovely. We left at 6:20 am to sweet, dark coolness with the sun just about ready to rise. I love this time of day, with the air still, the village asleep, roosters soon to crow their cacophony off in the distance.

The path was gently rolling today, the views, breathtaking. We walked steadily until about 11:00 am when we stopped beside the trail to take our packs off, rest and eat a baguette sandwich of lettuce, mayo, chicken. It hit the spot.

I thought this was beautiful and conveyed our scenic walk. All I need to do is add the pictures. 

Today also turned out to be a social day, especially after lunch. We met Bart from Belgium first. 

As finishing lunch, we met Renee, Jacque, and Claude again (we had had dinner with them a few days ago). 

Pat having conversations with Claudine and Marie-Claude, two French former pre-school teachers.

This is the gite where we stay tonight and tomorrow night (tomorrow is our rest day after 6 consecutive days of walking). It will be nice to check out the town while wearing our sandals and without backpacks.  Simple joys. 

Btw, we walked 15 km and climbed 117 floors.