Inching toward Leon – part 2

We had brought picnic breakfast today.

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We reached a town just before 9. This is second Sunday in a row that we reached a town only to find a party from Saturday night finishing and young kids stumbling out into the streets.

I have many more pictures to share but the connection is bad and in the last two hours I have only been able to load two pictures.

We made it to our destination by 11 am. We had to settle for eggs for lunch as not much was available. We had a wonderful dinner as Sitara lead the dinner meal with others help. We had our German friends over for dinner. We also invited a Russian girl to join in our meal. Every one is tucked in bed as I try to post the last few lines.

Inching toward Leon

Every time we cross a highway or a village we see the signs for our biggest city on the way to Santiago. It is merely 60 km away. In America that would be just a 30 to 45 minute drive to work or visit to a friends home. When you are walking the Camino, that is a 2 day walk if you are covering 30 km a day. For most that is 3 days of walk.

We had to make the choice of taking the Camino Francis which allows you to make it in 17, 19, and 18 km chunks. We could also take the Romero way which was 10, 25, and 18 km (two routes merge on the last day from Mansila to Leon). Both the guide recommend to take the bus as it is industrial and requires crossing the freeway multiple times.

For today we decided to stay on the Camino Frances and travel 17 km to El Burgo Renero another small town but with multiple Albergue and restaurant as well as a grocery store.

Once again we were treated to a magnificent sun rise spectacle.

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We were ready with breakfast this morning and made a picnic stop around 7 km away (every ones pace has improved and the are moving a lot faster even with all the aches and sores)..

Continued on part 2…

Walk to Sahagun – part 2

I have discovered that after so many pictures my app crawls trying to finish the blog. Rather than spend hours, I am testing to see if breaking it into smaller blog helps. Sorry for spamming you!

Anyway, it’s amazing how beautiful every thing looks early in the morning. The walk itself become a meditation with little mindfulness and the Meseta comes alive with beauty.

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Breakfast once again consisted of coffee, croissants, and orange juice. We continued to make good progress toward Sahagun.

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Sahagun has some of the structure that date back to 8th century. We made it here at around 1 pm. We found a nice room at an old monastery and had a nice lunch at the plaza.

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Walk to Sahagun

Our goal for today was 22 km to Sahagun. Every one loves the idea of getting out early and getting some miles before breakfast. Also, the town that we stayed on was very small with no stores and only one restaurant. We also had a restful afternoon as we were done before noon.

It was once again cool and crisp wether as we left again in darkness. The morning breeze felt good as we walked past the next town about 6 km away which also happen to have no stores and one restaurant with not much to offer. We continued to push on enjoying the peaceful morning and once again a gorgeous sunrise.

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Sun rays were soft and gentle and made every thing look beautiful. I decided to shoot some simple weeds and wild flowers as they seemed unusually superb.

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The story continues in part 2…

Unbelievable but true

This rag tag team has made it half way through our Camino journey of approximately 500 miles. Three weeks and 2 days (including 3 days of rest) into our walk, we have made it past the halfway point. Although, in the path there is no point, it is a journey that goes on. We celebrated this by taking this selfie.

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Our goal today was simply to go to the next village. The trick, it was 17 km with no water or food along the way.
Since we had done over 27 yesterday, this was considered short and easy day. We left the alberge around 6:45 in the morning.

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Morning was crisp and cool and full of quite sweetness as we moved through the town and onto country road.

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When the sun finally started to emerge it bathed the world in soft glow without any harshness to it.

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When the rays finally grazed the fields , it was the grace dancing with field and creating a soft and gentle feeling of nurturing and healing.

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It was peaceful and quite. Every one walking in their own rhythm dealing with their aches and pains as well as joy and bliss. Unexpected surprise was finding of picnic area and food where there was none thought to be available. Most every one was prepared for solitary journey but welcomed the pleasant surprise.

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We ran into our German friends again today and enjoyed the travel back and forth.

We made it to Calzadilla, our destination just before noon. This was our semi rest day as we continue to move toward Leon. Every one was marveling at what we have accomplished so far and energized to tackle the next half of our journey.

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Boadilla to Carrion De Los Condes

Our goal for today was 26.5 km so we began at 6:25 in the morning.

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We made good progress walking along the canal. The morning breeze was sweet and comforting. It reminded me of the early morning walks we used to do as kids in Chittagong. As we walked we started to plan out our next reunion hopefully in December of 2015 in Bangladesh. We will see if this can materialize or we were just reminiscing the good old days. The early morning light just slowly filtered in as we kept walking at a brisk pace.

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We made it to Formista before 8 am covering 6 km and had a quick breakfast. We then travelled another 2 km to the next town where we had the choice of wking along the canal again or walk along the highway (slightly shorter). We chose the scenic route which was another 10 km. along the way we met Pepe. Who was sharing fruits and candies with the pilgrims.

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A little past 12 we had already covered about 20 km. we decided to check out the beautiful church and grab a lunch before our last push of the day in the hot sun.

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I though the last 6+ km in hot Meseta sun will be slow and hard but team Camino after completing 3 full weeks is rocking and strong. We reached our destination without struggling and ready to explore the town. After dinner when I checked our mileage we had done over 31 km for the day, a new record for us.

We are staying in the monastery of Santa Clara whose claim to fame is the fact that St Francis of Assisi stayed here while doing the Camino. We get to enjoy his energy tonight. We wanted to have dinner with the singing nuns but they are on a spiritual retreat. We did enjoy the singing and sharing communal experience with other pilgrims and volunteers of the Santa Maria alberge.

An oasis in the Meseta

We decided to keep our day short and just planned to walk a mere 19 km. you know the team is stronger if they think 19 km is a short day. After two plus week of walking, every one is feeling stronger. We are beginning to understand the rhythm of the Camino.

We left at 6:30 in the morning again to avoid the intense heat of the afternoon.

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We had a steep early climb but after Pyrenees and early in the morning nobody was bent out of shape about it. As we were climbing it one could see the sun begging to emerge.

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Once again at the top we found an enterprising young man selling the basic necessities.

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We felt like we were back in Meseta with nothing but vast open expanse.

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We made great progress and stopped for breakfast after we had covered 11 km.

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Next part was probably the best part for me. There was nothing remarkable except the quite silence and straight road. It was peaceful and meditative. I walked alone for an hour on a slight incline oblivious to the world. There was no sound or wind. It was simply blissful. At the top under shade of the tree, I waited for the rest of the team.

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We could see the town of Poadilla Del Camino 4 km down the road where we planned to spend the afternoon/night. On the way down to the town we witnessed a shepherd moving his flock along with the help of his two dogs.

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We arrived at the town about 1 pm. Earliest we have ever stopped. The alberge that we found was the most pleasant surprise of the day. For 7 euro per bed, this is the best alberge we have encountered so far. The title represent how it feels here. I understand that this place is run by a family and dinner is supposed to be very nice. Here is the glimpse of the town and the resort, um alberge.

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P.S. Note the stork on top of his nest.

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Subtle beauty of Meseta

Today would be our first full day in Meseta. Our goal, 21km. Only one village 10 km away where we would replenish water and food and settle at the next village for the night, another 10 km away.

We began early again to avoid the heat of the afternoon sun. We left at 6:20 I’m the morning in the dark with quite a few other pilgrims.

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Sitara and I took the lead and the whole team Camino covered 10 km in less than 3 hours.

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It is interesting to begin to see simple beauty all around you while the vast expanse stays stationary.

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We reached the village of Hontanas around 9:15 and enjoyed a nice breakfast of eggs, croissants, chocolate croissants, fresh orange juice and coffee.

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After over an hour break we decided to move on. The sun was already blazing at 10:30 and you could see the lines of pilgrims in the open vista, driven by invisible force towards Santiago.

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Along the way we ran into a 14th century ruins of a convent which was converted to an alberge.

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Few blocks after the San Anton Convent we were able to see the highlight of Castrojeriz, our destination for today.

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We are settled in a casa rural for tonight in a private room with our own bathroom. Everybody is resting after a nice lunch. It is one of the hottest day of the season according to our host. We have bought our grocery for tonight’s dinner and will enjoy our sandwich in the patio if it cools down.

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Phase 2 of the walk

Today we began our journey from Burgos toward Leon (beginning of stage 4). Stages are simply major cities along the Camino, and this is phase 2 of the walk. The phase 1 of the walk is about conquering and surviving the bodies aches and pain. After doing it for 2 weeks, the body is becoming resilient and strong (one hopes).

Phase 2 is the journey through the Meseta (open land, no shade, scorching sun). Even when you are traveling with others you are alone with your shadow and your thoughts. This is where your mind can become your partner or drive you crazy. Of course these phases are very individual yet at some point we must deal with these thoughts and issues. If you can silence the mind then you enter the third stage which is the spiritual phase.

Our goal was to go about 23km to Hornillos De Camino. We started early again and were out of our comfortable hotel room by 6:30.

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It was about 5 km before we were out of Burgos and we began to see signs of rural life. Our first villages was about 11 km from Burgos.

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We stopped for breakfast at Tardajos near a highway and also bought our sandwiches for lunch, as the next town was only 2 km away and then 10 km later our destination for the day would arrive.

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Once we left this town, there was no shade or water the rest of the way. Just wide open blue sky and open fields that has a beauty of its own.

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We just finished eating our dinner. Sitara took charge of the kitchen and we all chipped in.

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The glory of Burgos

River walk from our hotel takes you to the jewel of Burgos, the cathedral.

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First view of the cathedral gives you the glimpse of its magnificence.

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Here is the many views of the cathedral.

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This 17th century gateway is the most photographed in Burgos.

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We ran into our German friends at the Cathedral.

We went on a bus tour next.

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A

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We took a tour of the cathedral that has many chapels inside and most of them constructed in the 14th and 15th century.

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For a rest day, we ended up wking over 7 miles and bumming around for almost 12 hours. It was all fun though and tomorrow we begin stage four into the Spanish desert.