A short day from Palas de Rei to Malide

We changed our plans for today so we could meet my brothers in a larger city (our original goal was Boneta, an additional 5km). Also, everyone was tired from the grind yesterday. We don’t know if the brothers will make it here today or tomorrow (the train is arriving in Santiago at 8 pm).

Since we only had plans to go 15 km, we started late, around 8 am after a light breakfast.

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Most of the walking today felt like country side walking with nice views.

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I should introduce you to my “tomato” team!

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After breakfast or breaks when we are ready to go, I make sure my senior team has started walking (as I am responsible for bringing up the rear). Then I look at my young team and say to my tomatoes, “We are leaving.” They in unison respond, “We will ketchup!” Drum roll please!

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Melide is famous for Pulpo (octopus). Some of the team are hungry for it. The rest of us just want a good dinner. We will find out later if my brothers can join us tonight, otherwise we will see them tomorrow.

A tough grind

Our goal for today was to travel 25 km to Palas De Rei. We woke up to find out that the water system was contaminated due to the torrential rain the night before (brown water coming from all faucets)

We left the town in darkness at 7:30. The way out was a long and arduous climb in the cool and overcast sky. Soon the light was visible and we had beautiful views around us.

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After 8 km we hit our first town and street side cafe. It was packed with pilgrims. There were hundreds of pilgrims around us The majority had started in Sarai to do the last 100 km. Our quite paths felt crowded for once. A feeling so unfamiliar.

The path was a constant up and down. The weather got cooler and then warm and then cold again.

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As we were entering town after 25 grueling km and 170 floors of climbing, I got word that my two brothers Barkat and Sikander have reached Madrid.

We hope to meet up with them tomorrow afternoon in Melide ( 15 km from Palas De Rei and only 50 km from Santiago).

Barkat will join us for our walk to Santiago, while Sikander will wait for us in Santiago. We are excited about the reunion!

Sunken city of Portomarine

After our longest day and longest distance it was nice to sit at the farm house and enjoy beautiful view and evening sun.

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Fortunately for us our goal for today was the Portomarine which was 19 km. this would be our shortest distance the rest of the trip. We decided to leave an hour later as sun was coming up.

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It was another beautiful day with lush paths. Now that we have crossed Saria, number of pilgrims on the path has increased exponentially. Number of cows in our path and their pies has also increased in Galicia.

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Original city of Portomarine was drowned in 1956, and a new city was created just above in the hills.

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After settling in and lunch we decided to go down to the bridge and look at the old town. A torrential rain started for next 45 minutes and we were stuck under a shelter as the water from town started to flood around us.

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We officially crossed the 100 km marker today (every marker has been suspect so far – the numbers seems to go back and fourth).

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Best laid plans…

We thought we were done with all the records. The longest day, the most miles, the longest climb, the highest point, the most strenuous climb. We were wrong!

Our plan was to take the path that would bypass Samos and take us to Saria and then on to Barbadelo to a 17th century farmhouse converted to an Albergue that was highly recommend. This meant a respectable 22 km day.

We once again woke up early and left our Albergue at 6:30.

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At this point our detective Sakkar discovered that the name of the town did not match what we were expecting. We realized at that point that in the dark we had missed our turnoff point somehow. We were 9 km into our day. The other path was going to save us 7 km. We decided to take our lumps and continue forward to Samos and see the 9th century monastery.

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This day was a perfect day for a hike. Beautiful views, lush paths, nice weather. Every thing was just perfect.

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By the time we made it to Saria it was almost 3 pm and we needed our lunch and the cover another 5 km.

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By the time we made it to Casa Carmen, our destination. It was 6 pm and 32 km with 173 floors climbed. This makes it our most miles and longest day of hiking. Hopefully Camino does not have too many more of these kind of surprises for us.

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Scenic route down to Tricastella

After the long and scenic walk yesterday, today our plan was to simply hike down the mountain and keep the day short and sweet. There was forecast for more rain and everyone was in the mood for a short day.

We decided to sleep in an extra hour and leave around 8. It was raining when we got up so we decided to have the breakfast at the Albergue and left at 8:30 with slight rain.

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Team was excited at the prospect of a short and beautiful day. We thought we may have to walk on the road due to the rain, but the trail looked nice and beautiful.

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Rain was intermittent and turned in to mist. Every one was enjoying the panoramic view of the valley.

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We are all settled in for the night in Tricastella. Tomorrow we head past Saria to Barbedelo which means by end of tomorrow, God willing, we will be less than 100 km (60 miles) from Santiago.

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Rain in Spain – part 2

This post will be mostly pictures from yesterday.

As we leave in the morning.

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Morning scenery and break.

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The path and walk to La Faba.

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Climbing to Galicia.

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To the town of Ocebrero and continue on in rain.

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The last break and final stretch of the day.

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Rain in Spain…

Today we were planning to officially enter Galicia by climbing through the most strenuous climb of Camino. Our hike was supposed to be flat for first 5 and last 8 km and the rest was supposed to be a climb.

We left Vega de Valcarce at 6:30. It was an overcast day with slightly warm breeze.

I have attempted to load pictures with no success so far, so this post will have to be narrative with pictures to be added when I have a better connection.

We went through the first two towns fairly quickly as it was still dark. We made out first stop in La Faba after a slight climb at around 7 km. From there we walked up steadily for 5 km for our major climb of the day. At around 10:30 it started to rain and the the wind picked up, and at the time of this writing, neither has stopped.

The view was gorgeous with lush green valleys all around us. Rain and climbing were a constant but those did not dampen our spirits. It was almost a repeat of the ecstasy and agony (previous post).

On the way to the top we were greeted by the welcome sign for Galicia, welcoming us to our 3rd and final phase of the Camino. One awareness I had, as we were climbing in the rain and wind, is that I used to think linearly about these phases. The reality is, we constantly evolve and these phases are more circular.

The town of Ocebrero sits at the top. The next 10 km was supposed to be flat, but the books were misleading! The whole day turned out to be hilly. By afternoon we were dodging puddles and cows along our path having a grand time with pain and pleasure. We have met so many folks who have done Camino multiple times. They all cherish the razor’s edge of beauty coupled with rigorous workout along with the camaraderie as the reason they keep coming back.

After 22.5 km and 343 ( a new record) floors of climbing we are in an Albergue at the alto de poio where there is not much to do but mingle with strangers. We are chatting with an Irish student on one side and a couple from Denmark on the other. Lunch and dinner menus were the same but after the hard day still tasted delicious.

It’s time to sign out for tonight! I will post the pictures from today as soon as I get access to a better connection.

A bend in the river

It is amazing how you lose track of time! Every once in a while, one of us will ask the other, what is today’s date? or what day it is? After doing the Camino for over a month we have lost track of what is happening in the world. We think in terms of easy days or hard days and km covered. Just this morning I realized that the football games were played on Sunday and I had no clue who won or lost.

Our plan for today was an easy day to get 16 km so we can begin our most strenuous climb of the Camino tomorrow, well rested.

Last night as we went out for dinner we took a peak at the town of Villafranca. It is not only a pilgrim town but also a tourist town for the locals as there are more hotels than albergue’s in town.

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Since we had a short day planned, every one decided on an extra hour of sleep. We left our Albergue at around 7:15.

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Our path was along the river beside the old highway.

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It was a simple but beautiful walk to our next village of Trabadelo which turned out to have a saw mill.

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Breakfast there was simple.

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Enjoyed some beautiful flowers along the way. Here is sampling of it.

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Along the way I discovered the mystery of a walnut.

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Does any one knows this tree? The blossoms remind us of something from Dr. Suess.

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As we neared our destination we saw this marker.

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We are settled in our Pension for tonight as we have an early morning departure for a longer day!

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A breezy and peachy day

After a long day yesterday every one was in the mood for a shorter day but the best we could do in terms of towns and Albergue was to plan for Villafranca. It added up to 25 km, another long day but mostly flat day.

We left at 6:40 in the morning along the scenic path of town. Ponfarada turned out to be much larger than we imagined taking almost 3 km to get out of town.

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It was nice to get into smaller and more frequent towns. One thing we noticed is how prosperous these towns are compared to the ones in Meseta. The most special thing was the wonderful sweet breeze that was blowing all day.

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After breakfast we were back again in the wine country with tons of fruit trees. We decided to pick few fruits like peaches and pears.

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As you can see in the above picture, we have less than 200 km to Santiago. We are 3/4 of the way done and are feeling it our feet. Since we had a reservation for a good Albergue, we decided to have a nice sit down lunch before continuing on.

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Here is an old fashion grape juicer.

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We ended up walking 25 km. our plan for tomorrow is 18 km so we can enjoy our next climb coming day after tomorrow.

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The Ecstasy and the Agony

Today we were going to start by climbing for a short while and then downhill to Molinseca and onward to Panforada. We calculated that to be around 22 km.

We left at 6:30 in the morning. The weather was cool and misty with cloud cover. It was very easy to see that we had left beautiful but flat Meseta behind.

The view was so gorgeous that I thought I had died and gone to heaven. It was one of those magical mornings when you realize why you are doing the Camino and why all the aches and pains are worth what you see. I am not sure if pictures can do justice to what we witnessed but here is my best attempt.

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As you can see it was beyond words. It was tough walking downhill on loose rocks. We moved through Manjatin, Acebo, and Ambrose. The young group missed a turn and ended up going down the paved highway. We stuck to the beautiful downhill path. After 4 km we look down on the highway and there are 4 young adults walking down. Amazing that we run into each other like that. We all walked down together to next tow Molinseca. We had already done over 21 km by then our town was still supposedly couple of km away. It was already 2 pm and we were all hungry. Spanish siesta forces you to eat now or be forced to wait until 7. The kids decided to eat while the rest of us marched on. It turned out to be 28.5 km before we made it to Panferado. Hence the title Agony. It was slightly past 4 when we checked into our Albergue.

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Few of us decided to go on and check out the beautiful castle in town. We then had one of the most wonderful home cooked meal in Spain at our private Albergue As I look at my meage we ended up with 32.5 km which makes this our longest day yet.

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