Monthly Archives: September 2014

An oasis in the Meseta

We decided to keep our day short and just planned to walk a mere 19 km. you know the team is stronger if they think 19 km is a short day. After two plus week of walking, every one is feeling stronger. We are beginning to understand the rhythm of the Camino.

We left at 6:30 in the morning again to avoid the intense heat of the afternoon.

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We had a steep early climb but after Pyrenees and early in the morning nobody was bent out of shape about it. As we were climbing it one could see the sun begging to emerge.

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Once again at the top we found an enterprising young man selling the basic necessities.

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We felt like we were back in Meseta with nothing but vast open expanse.

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We made great progress and stopped for breakfast after we had covered 11 km.

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Next part was probably the best part for me. There was nothing remarkable except the quite silence and straight road. It was peaceful and meditative. I walked alone for an hour on a slight incline oblivious to the world. There was no sound or wind. It was simply blissful. At the top under shade of the tree, I waited for the rest of the team.

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We could see the town of Poadilla Del Camino 4 km down the road where we planned to spend the afternoon/night. On the way down to the town we witnessed a shepherd moving his flock along with the help of his two dogs.

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We arrived at the town about 1 pm. Earliest we have ever stopped. The alberge that we found was the most pleasant surprise of the day. For 7 euro per bed, this is the best alberge we have encountered so far. The title represent how it feels here. I understand that this place is run by a family and dinner is supposed to be very nice. Here is the glimpse of the town and the resort, um alberge.

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P.S. Note the stork on top of his nest.

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Subtle beauty of Meseta

Today would be our first full day in Meseta. Our goal, 21km. Only one village 10 km away where we would replenish water and food and settle at the next village for the night, another 10 km away.

We began early again to avoid the heat of the afternoon sun. We left at 6:20 I’m the morning in the dark with quite a few other pilgrims.

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Sitara and I took the lead and the whole team Camino covered 10 km in less than 3 hours.

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It is interesting to begin to see simple beauty all around you while the vast expanse stays stationary.

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We reached the village of Hontanas around 9:15 and enjoyed a nice breakfast of eggs, croissants, chocolate croissants, fresh orange juice and coffee.

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After over an hour break we decided to move on. The sun was already blazing at 10:30 and you could see the lines of pilgrims in the open vista, driven by invisible force towards Santiago.

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Along the way we ran into a 14th century ruins of a convent which was converted to an alberge.

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Few blocks after the San Anton Convent we were able to see the highlight of Castrojeriz, our destination for today.

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We are settled in a casa rural for tonight in a private room with our own bathroom. Everybody is resting after a nice lunch. It is one of the hottest day of the season according to our host. We have bought our grocery for tonight’s dinner and will enjoy our sandwich in the patio if it cools down.

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Phase 2 of the walk

Today we began our journey from Burgos toward Leon (beginning of stage 4). Stages are simply major cities along the Camino, and this is phase 2 of the walk. The phase 1 of the walk is about conquering and surviving the bodies aches and pain. After doing it for 2 weeks, the body is becoming resilient and strong (one hopes).

Phase 2 is the journey through the Meseta (open land, no shade, scorching sun). Even when you are traveling with others you are alone with your shadow and your thoughts. This is where your mind can become your partner or drive you crazy. Of course these phases are very individual yet at some point we must deal with these thoughts and issues. If you can silence the mind then you enter the third stage which is the spiritual phase.

Our goal was to go about 23km to Hornillos De Camino. We started early again and were out of our comfortable hotel room by 6:30.

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It was about 5 km before we were out of Burgos and we began to see signs of rural life. Our first villages was about 11 km from Burgos.

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We stopped for breakfast at Tardajos near a highway and also bought our sandwiches for lunch, as the next town was only 2 km away and then 10 km later our destination for the day would arrive.

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Once we left this town, there was no shade or water the rest of the way. Just wide open blue sky and open fields that has a beauty of its own.

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We just finished eating our dinner. Sitara took charge of the kitchen and we all chipped in.

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